Ola Ola Olodum
Day 16
There are two ways you can spend carnaval. The first, which is the cheapest option, is to be part of the crowd who watch the carnaval processions from the side of the street. The locals call this being piposca (meaning popcorn). The other way is to join a bloco, where you pay for a tshirt or outfit which allows you to follow a particular groups truck during their carnaval marches. It is relatively expensive, but the safest way to spend carnaval (aside from sitting in your room) as you are protected from the theiving masses by a rope and a large number of security guards.
The day we arrived in Salvador we were talked into joining the bloco for a local group called Olodum. This turned out to a great idea as Olodum really are an amazing drum band who have a huge influence in Salvador. Aside from playing with Michael Jackson, they have a local school which teaches drumming to the kids and gets them off the streets. The drummers in the main band are all huge characters and throw drums around in the most impressive way. In addition, our African costumes, complete with headress, , were by far and away the best of any I saw. Jo and I almost became local celebrities as everyone clamoured to have their photos taken with us (well I guess it is a little odd to see a Chinese and a white girl dressed as african women in the middle of Brazil!).
The first carnaval march was a bit of a disaster however as it started more than 5 hours late (at 2am no less). The locals in the procession got rightly angry and began a small demonstration which included one guy burning his hat and screaming ….down with Olodum. He seemed pretty happy with them however when they started marching so all ended well.
The second carnaval march was amazing. We were the first in the procession and Jo and I danced right at the front, and as we danced along the beachfront the sun slowly went down. This for me at least, was the best part of carnaval.
The thrid march was more stressful. We were on the main carnaval route and things were very busy. After a while Jo and I decided to leave the bloco and try to head home. Bad idea, since as soon as we got outside the ropes we got caught in the most immense crush. I think it only lasted about 5 minutes, but it was enough to make us be glad carnaval was coming to an end.